Kieflies Gastronomica “Maybe kieflies are religiously neutral; maybe they used to be our Rosh Hashanah treat; maybe we converted to them with Catholicism…. But I’m not threatened by the shifting of origins, of either patisserie or grandfathers, because my origins have never been stable: I’m Korean, more or less, I’m adopted, and I’ve adopted the role of last kieflie baker to the family.” Back to Essays & Stories Illustration: Marco Marella