Gastronomica

“Maybe kieflies are religiously neutral; maybe they used to be our Rosh Hashanah treat; maybe we converted to them with Catholicism…. But I’m not threatened by the shifting of origins, of either patisserie or grandfathers, because my origins have never been stable: I’m Korean, more or less, I’m adopted, and I’ve adopted the role of last kieflie baker to the family.”

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Illustration: Marco Marella